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{{short description|Aspect of chess play concerned with long-term goals and positioning}}
One of the charms of the game of [[chess]] is the interplay between tactics and strategy. ''Tactics'' refers to "tricks" or "combinations" that achieve material advantage or checkmate in a couple of moves, ''strategy'' refers to long-term planning and the proper placement of the pieces on the board in the absense of any short-term opportunities.


'''Chess strategy''' is the aspect of [[chess]] play concerned with evaluation of chess positions and setting goals and long-term plans for future play. While evaluating a position strategically, a player must take into account such factors as the [[Chess piece relative value|relative value]] of the pieces on the board, [[pawn structure]], [[king (chess)|king]] safety, position of pieces, and control of [[key square]]s and groups of squares (e.g. diagonals, [[open file]]s, and individual squares). Chess [[sports strategy|strategy]] is distinguished from [[chess tactics]], which is the aspect of play concerned with the move-by-move setting up of threats and defenses. Some authors distinguish static strategic imbalances (e.g. having more valuable pieces or better pawn structure), which tend to persist for many moves, from dynamic imbalances (such as one player having an advantage in piece {{chessgloss|development}}), which are temporary.<ref>Silman, "How to Reassess Your Chess"</ref> This distinction affects the immediacy with which a sought-after plan should take effect. Until players reach the skill level of "[[Chess title|master]]", chess tactics tend to ultimately decide the outcomes of games more often than strategy. Many chess coaches thus emphasize the study of tactics as the most efficient way to improve one's results in serious chess play.
In describing tactics and strategy, we will be using the algebraic notation for squares on the [[Chess/Board|chess board]].


The most basic way to evaluate one's position is to count the total value of pieces on both sides. The [[Chess piece relative value|point values]] used for this purpose are based on experience. Usually [[pawn (chess)|pawns]] are considered to be worth one point, [[knight (chess)|knights]] and [[bishop (chess)|bishops]] three points each, [[rook (chess)|rooks]] five points, and [[queen (chess)|queens]] nine points. The fighting value of the king in the [[Chess endgame|endgame]] is approximately four points. These basic values are modified by other factors such as the {{em|position of the pieces}} (e.g. advanced pawns are usually more valuable than those on their starting squares), {{em|coordination between pieces}} (e.g. a {{chessgloss|bishop pair}} usually coordinates better than a bishop plus a knight), and the {{em|type of position}} (knights are generally better in {{chessgloss|closed game|closed positions}} with many pawns, while bishops are more powerful in {{chessgloss|open game|open positions}}).
== Tactics ==


Another important factor in the evaluation of chess positions is the pawn structure or pawn skeleton. Since pawns are the most immobile and least valuable of the pieces, the pawn structure is relatively static and largely determines the strategic nature of the position. Weaknesses in the pawn structure, such as [[Isolated pawn|isolated]], [[Doubled pawns|doubled]], or [[Backward pawn|backward]] pawns and {{chessgloss|holes}}, once created, are usually permanent. Care must therefore be taken to avoid them unless they are compensated by another valuable asset, such as the possibility to develop an attack.
==== Values of the pieces ====
{{algebraic notation|pos=toc}}


== Basic concepts of board evaluation ==
Since one objective of tactics is to obtain material advantage, one first needs to understand the values of the pieces.
{{Main|Chess piece relative value}}
A [[Chess/Knight|knight]] is about as valuable as a [[Chess/Bishop|bishop]], but less so than a [[Chess/Rook|rook]]. Three [[Chess/Pawn|pawns]] will overpower a knight in the endgame, but in the middlegame a knight is often more powerful. A knight and a bishop are stronger than a single rook. Two rooks are stronger than a [[Chess/Queen|queen]], but not by much. One commonly used simple scoring system is 1 point for a pawn, 3 for a knight or bishop, 5 for a rook, and 9 for a queen. Under a system like this, giving up a knight or bishop in order to win a rook ("winning the exchange") is advantageous and values about two pawns.


A {{chessgloss|material}} advantage applies both strategically and tactically. Generally more pieces or an aggregate of more powerful pieces means greater chances of winning. A fundamental strategic and tactical rule is to capture opponent pieces while preserving one's own.
==== Forks ====


Bishops and knights are called ''minor pieces''. A [[Knight (chess)|knight]] is about as valuable as a [[Bishop (chess)|bishop]], but less valuable than a [[Rook (chess)|rook]]. Rooks and the queen are called ''major pieces''. Bishops are usually considered slightly better than knights in open positions, such as toward the end of the game when many of the pieces have been captured, whereas knights have an advantage in closed positions. Having two bishops (the {{chessgloss|bishop pair}}) is a particularly powerful weapon, especially if the opposing player lacks one or both of their bishops.
A fork is a move that uses one piece to attacks two of the opponent's pieces at the same time, thereby achieving material advantage. Knights are often used for forks: they jump to a position from where they attack two pieces. A quite common situation is a white knight jumping to c7, thereby threating both the rook at a8 and the king at e8.
Pawns can also fork enemy pieces: by moving a pawn forward, it may attack two pieces: one diagonally to the left and one diagonally to the right. A common situation is the move Pawn d2-d4 forking a black bishop at c5 and a black knight at e5.


Three [[Pawn (chess)|pawns]] are likely to be more useful than a knight in the [[Chess endgame|endgame]], but in the [[Chess middlegame|middlegame]], a knight is often more powerful. Two minor pieces are stronger than a single rook, and two rooks are slightly stronger than a queen. The bishop on squares of the same color as the opponent's king is slightly more valuable in the opening as it can attack the vulnerable square f7 (for White) or f2 (for Black). A rook is more valuable when {{chessgloss|doubled rooks|doubled}} with another rook or queen; consequently, doubled rooks are worth more than two {{chessgloss|connected rooks|unconnected rooks}}.
A queen move also often attacks two pieces at the same time, but this is only useful if both pieces are undefended.


One commonly used simple scoring system is:
==== Pins ====
:{| class="wikitable"
! Piece !! Value
|-
| Pawn || align="center" | 1
|-
| Knight || align="center" | 3
|-
| Bishop || align="center" | 3
|-
| Rook || align="center" | 5
|-
| Queen || align="center" | 9
|}


Under a system like this, giving up a knight or bishop to win a rook ("winning [[the exchange (chess)|the exchange]]") is advantageous and is worth about two pawns. This ignores complications such as the current position and freedom of the pieces involved, but it is a good starting point. In an open position, bishops are more valuable than knights (a bishop pair can easily be worth seven points or more in some situations); conversely, in a closed position, bishops are less valuable than knights. A knight in the center of the board that cannot be taken, however, is known as a [[Outpost (chess)|knight outpost]] and threatens several [[fork (chess)|fork]] instances. In such a case, a knight is worth far more than a bishop. Also, many pieces have a partner. By doubling up two knights, two rooks, rook and queen, or bishop and queen, the pieces can get stronger than the sum of the individual pieces alone. When a piece loses its partner, its value slightly decreases. The [[king (chess)|king]] is priceless since its capture results in the defeat of that player and ends that game. However, especially in the endgame, the king can also be a fighting piece, and is sometimes given a fighting value of three-and-a-half points.
A pin is a move which forces one of the opponent's pieces to stay put because moving it would expose a more valuable piece behind it. Bishops and rooks can pin other pieces. A pin that often occurs in openings is the move Bishop b5 which pins the knight on c6, because moving the knight would expose the king on e8 to a check. A common way to win the queen is to pin her to the king with a rook, for instance with a white rook on e1, the black queen on e7 and the black king on e8.


==== Zwischenzug ====
=== Space ===
Other things being equal, the side that controls more {{chessgloss|space}} on the board has an advantage.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.chessstrategyonline.com/content/tutorials/introduction-to-chess-strategy-positional-advantage|title=Positional advantage - Chess Strategy Online|website=www.chessstrategyonline.com|access-date=3 April 2018}}</ref> More space means more options, which can be exploited both tactically and strategically. A player who has all pieces developed and no tactical tricks or promising long-term plan should try to find a move that enlarges their influence, particularly in the center. In some openings, however, one player accepts less space for a time, to set up a counterattack in the middlegame. This is one of the concepts behind [[hypermodernism (chess)|hypermodern]] play.


The easiest way to gain space is to push the pawn skeleton forward. One must be careful not to over stretch, however. If the opponent succeeds in getting a protected piece behind enemy lines, this piece can become such a serious problem that a piece with a higher value might have to be exchanged for it.
The German ''Zwischenzug'' means "intermediate move"; it is a common tactic that occurs in almost every game: instead of countering a direct threat, which the opponent expects, a move is played which poses an even more devastating threat, usually an attack against the queen or the king. The opponent has to counter that threat first, and this will ideally change the situation to his disadvantage.


{{Chess diagram
When you plan your tactics, you should always watch out for a ''Zwischenzug''. Don't assume that the opponent has to counter your threats immediately. It is a good practice to always check whether your opponent has a check or a move that threatens your queen. Conversely, anticipate your opponents threats and plan a surprising ''Zwischenzug''.
|tright
|
|rd| | |qd| |rd|kd|
|pd|bd|pd|nd|bd|pd|pd|pd
| |pd| |pd| |nd| |
| | | |pl|pd| | |
| | |pl| |pl| | |
|pl| |nl| | | |pl|
| |pl| | |nl|pl|bl|pl
|rl| |bl|ql| |rl|kl|
|White has an advantage in space.<ref name=Evans103 />
}}
[[Larry Evans (chess grandmaster)|Larry Evans]] gives a method of evaluating space. The method (for each side) is to count the number of squares attacked or occupied on the opponent's side of the board. In this diagram from the [[Nimzo-Indian Defense]], Black attacks four squares on White's side of the board (d4, e4, f4, and g4). White attacks seven squares on Black's side of the board (b5, c6, e6, f5, g5, and h6 – counting b5 twice) and occupies one square (d5). White has a space advantage of eight to four and Black is cramped.<ref name="Evans103">Evans (1958), pp. 103–04</ref>


==== Sacrifices ====
===Control of the center===
{{chess diagram small
|tleft
|
|rd|nd|bd|qd|kd|bd|nd|rd
|pd|pd|pd|pd|pd|pd|pd|pd
| | | | | | | |
| | | |xx|xx| | |
| | | |xx|xx| | |
| | | | | | | |
|pl|pl|pl|pl|pl|pl|pl|pl
|rl|nl|bl|ql|kl|bl|nl|rl
|Center squares are marked by "X".
}}
The strategy consists of placing pieces so that they attack the central four squares of the board. A piece being placed on a central square, however, does not necessarily mean it controls the center; e.g., a knight on a central square does not attack any central squares. Conversely, a piece does not have to be on a central square to control the center. For example, the bishop can control the center from afar.


Control of the center is generally considered important because tactical battles often take place around the central squares, from where pieces can access most of the board. Center control allows more movement and more possibility for attack and defense.
Often it is necessary to throw the opponent's position out of balance by first sacrificing some material, to be regained with interest a couple of moves later. Pawn sacrifices in the opening are known as ''gambits''; they are usually not intended for material short-term gain but instead to achieve a more active position.


Chess openings try to control the center while developing pieces. [[Hypermodernism (chess)|Hypermodern]] openings are those that control the center with pieces from afar (usually the side, such as with a [[fianchetto]]); the older Classical (or Modern) openings control it with pawns.
Direct attacks against the enemy [[Chess/King|king]] are often started by sacrifices; a common example is a bishop sacrificing itself on h7, checking the king on g8 who has to take the bishop, after which the white queen and knight develop a fulminant attack.
{{clear left}}


===Initiative===
==== Attacks against the king ====
{{Main|Initiative (chess)}}


The initiative belongs to the player who can make threats that cannot be ignored, such as checking the opponent's king. They thus put their opponent in the position of having to use their turns responding to threats rather than making their own, hindering the development of their pieces.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://chess.about.com/od/reference/g/bldefini.htm |title=Glossary : Initiative |access-date=2010-02-20 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20060506002514/http://chess.about.com/od/reference/g/bldefini.htm |archive-date=2006-05-06 }}</ref> The player with the initiative is generally attacking and the other player is generally defending.
Attacks against the castled king are usually justified by some imbalance: you have more firepower on the king's side than your opponent, or the opponent weakened his king's position by moving one of the pawns in front of the king.


=== Defending pieces ===
Many mating attacks are introduced by sacrifices: if mate is the goal, material doesn't matter anymore. The queen is almost always the most important piece in a mating attack, since she has various ways of mating a king. The most common of which is a direct "contact check" while being protected by one of her own pieces, for instance white knight g5, black king on g8 and the queen mates at h7, or white bishop at f6 or h6 and the white queen on g7 mates the black king on g8.
It is important to defend one's pieces even if they are not directly threatened. This helps stop possible future campaigns from the opponent. If a defender must be added at a later time, this may cost a [[Tempo (chess)|tempo]] or even be impossible due to a fork or discovered attack. The approach of always defending one's pieces has an antecedent in the theory of [[Aron Nimzowitsch]] who referred to it as "overprotection." Similarly, if one spots undefended enemy pieces, one should immediately take advantage of those pieces' weakness.


Even a defended piece can be vulnerable. If the defending piece is also defending something else, it is called an overworked piece, and may not be able to fulfill its task. When there is more than one attacking piece, the number of defenders must also be increased, and their values taken into account. In addition to defending pieces, it is also often necessary to defend key squares, open files, and the {{chessgloss|back rank}}. These situations can easily occur if the [[pawn structure]] is weak.
Don't assume that every move in a mating attack has to be a check. Often, a check just drives the king to a better position, or weakens your own setup. Try to find "quiet" moves which seal the deal.


== Strategy ==
=== Exchanging pieces ===
{{Main|Exchange (chess)}}


To exchange pieces means to capture a hostile piece and then allow a piece of the same value to be captured. As a rule of thumb, exchanging pieces eases the task of the defender who typically has less room to operate in.
==== Opening ====


Exchanging pieces is usually desirable to a player with an existing advantage in material, since it brings the endgame closer and thereby leaves the opponent with less ability to recover ground. In the endgame even a single pawn advantage may be decisive. Exchanging also benefits the player who is being attacked, the player who controls less space, and the player with the better pawn structure.{{Citation needed|date=July 2010}}
For beginners, it is not helpful to memorize opening moves; instead, by following a handful of principles, one can quite easily achieve a decent position for the middle game.


When playing against stronger players, many beginners attempt to constantly exchange pieces "to simplify matters". However, stronger players are often relatively stronger in the endgame, whereas errors are more common during the more complicated middlegame.
The most important part of the board is the center (e4, d4, e5, d5). It is important to place pawns in the center or to control it in some other way. Another major goal of the opening is to move the king away from the dangerous center and achieve castling. Every move should contribute to these goals and one should avoid losing time by making useless moves such as h7-h6. The white knights are usually developed to c3 and f3. The queen should avoid moving too early and too far into enemy territory, because otherwise the opponent will be able to gain time by playing developing moves which at the same time threaten the queen. Once castling has been achieved, the remaining bishops and knights should be developed so that the rooks on the first row become connected and can operate more effectively. This usually ends the opening phase of the game.


Note that "[[the exchange (chess)|the exchange]]" may also specifically mean a rook exchanged for a bishop or knight. The phrase "up the exchange" means that a player has captured a rook in exchange for a bishop or knight—a materially advantageous trade. Conversely, "down the exchange" means having lost a rook but captured a bishop or knight—a materially disadvantageous trade.
==== Space ====


===Specific pieces===
All other things being equal, the side which controls more space on the board has an advantage. More space translates into more options, which can be exploited both tactically and strategically. So if all your pieces are developed and you don't see any tactical tricks, try to find a move which will enlarge your influence, particularly in the center.

==== Pawns ====
{{Main|Pawn (chess)|l1=Pawn|Pawn structure}}
{| class="toccolours" style="float: right; margin: 0 0 1em 1em; border:none; font-size: 95%; clear: right; padding:0"
|+ An example of visualizing pawn structures
|-
|{{Chess diagram small
|
|
|rd|__|bd|__|rd|__|kd|__
|pd|pd|__|nd|__|pd|bd|pd
|__|__|pd|rl|__|nd|pd|__
|__|__|__|__|pd|__|__|__
|__|__|pl|__|pl|__|__|__
|__|__|nl|__|bl|nl|__|pl
|pl|pl|__|__|__|pl|pl|__
|__|__|kl|__|__|bl|__|rl
| After 12...Re8 in Tarrasch–Euwe, 1922<ref>{{cite web |url = http://www.chessgames.com/perl/chessgame?gid=1006866 |title = Tarrasch vs Euwe on chessgames.com}} (Java needed)</ref> ...
}}
| {{Chess diagram small
|
|
|__|__|__|__|__|__|__|__
|pd|pd|__|__|__|pd|__|pd
|__|__|pd|__|__|__|pd|__
|__|__|__|__|pd|__|__|__
|__|__|pl|__|pl|__|__|__
|__|__|__|__|__|__|__|pl
|pl|pl|__|__|__|pl|pl|__
|__|__|__|__|__|__|__|__
| ... and its pawn skeleton ("The Rauzer formation")
}}
|}
In the endgame, [[passed pawn]]s, unhindered by enemy pawns from [[Promotion (chess)|promotion]], are strong, especially if advanced or protected by another pawn. A passed pawn on the sixth {{chessgloss|rank}} is roughly as strong as a knight or bishop and often decides the game. (Also see [[isolated pawn]], [[doubled pawns]], [[backward pawn]], [[connected pawns]].)


==== Knights ====
==== Knights ====
{{Main|Knight (chess)|l1=Knight}}
Since knights can easily be chased away by pawn moves, it is often advantageous for knights to be placed in ''{{chessgloss|holes}}'' in the enemy position as [[Outpost (chess)|outposts]]—squares where they cannot be attacked by pawns. Such a knight on the fifth rank is a strong asset. The ideal position for a knight is the opponent's third rank, when it is supported by one or two pawns.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.thechessdrum.net/chessacademy/CA_TheKnight.html|title=The Knight|website=www.thechessdrum.net|access-date=3 April 2018}}</ref> A knight at the edge or corner of the board controls fewer squares than one on the board's interior, thus the saying "A knight on the rim is dim!"


A king and one knight are not sufficient material to [[checkmate]] an opposing [[lone king]] (see [[Two knights endgame]]). A king and two knights can checkmate a lone king but cannot force it.
Knights are easily chased away with pawn moves. Therefore it is important to spot "holes" in the enemy position where a knight cannot be attacked, because the pawns have already moved past. Once such a hole is identified, a knight should be maneuvered to that location. An unchallengable knight on the fifth row is a strong asset, and a supported knight on the sixth row usually decides the game.


==== Bishops ====
Unless there is a good reason for it, knights shouldn't be placed at the borders (and never in the corners) of the board, because there they control far less squares and can often be captured.
{{Main|Bishop (chess)|l1=Bishop}}
A bishop always stays on squares of the color it started on, so once one of them is gone, the squares of that color become more difficult to control. When this happens, pawns moved to squares of the other color do not block the bishop, and enemy pawns directly facing them are stuck on the vulnerable color.


A ''[[fianchetto]]ed'' bishop, e.g. at g2 after pawn g2–g3, can provide a strong defense for the castled king on g1 and often exert pressure on the long diagonal h1–a8. After a fianchetto, giving up the bishop can weaken the holes in the pawn chain; doing so in front of the castled king may thus affect its safety.
==== Pawns ====


In general, a bishop is of roughly equal value to a knight. In certain circumstances, one can be more powerful than the other. If the game is "closed" with many interlocked pawn formations, the knight tends to be stronger, because it can hop over the pawns while they block the bishop. A bishop is also weak if it is restricted by its own pawns, especially if they are blocked and on the bishop's color. Once a bishop is lost, the remaining bishop is considered weaker since the opponent can now plan their moves to play a white or black color game.
Pawns are most powerful if they come in groups on contiguous files. Isolated pawns, those without pawns on adjacent files, are often weak and also provide a nice spot for an enemy knight ahead of them. If your opponent has an isolated pawn, first try to block it by placing a piece ahead of it, and then attack it with rooks. The same should be done with opponent's pawns that were "left behind", meaning that the pawns on the neighboring files have already advanced.


In an {{chessgloss|open game|open position}} with action on both sides of the board, the bishop tends to be stronger because of its long range. This is especially true in the endgame; if passed pawns race on opposite sides of the board, the player with a bishop usually has better winning chances than a player with a knight.
Two pawns of the same color on the same file are called ''double pawns''; they are weak, especially so if they are also isolated, because they cannot protect each other and because they hinder each other's advancement.


A king and a bishop are not sufficient material to checkmate an opposing lone king, but two bishops and a king checkmate an opposing lone king easily.
In the endgame, "passed pawns", those which cannot be hindered by enemy pawns from promotion, are strong, especially if they are advanced. A passed pawn on the sixth row is roughly as strong as a knight or bishop and will often decide the game.


==== Bishops ====
==== Rooks ====
{{Main|Rook (chess)|l1=Rook}}
Rooks have more scope of movement on [[half-open file]]s (ones with no pawns of one's own color). Rooks on the seventh rank can be very powerful as they attack pawns that can only be defended by other pieces, and they can restrict the enemy king to its back rank. A pair of rooks on the player's seventh rank are often a sign of a winning position.


In [[Chess middlegame|middlegames]] and [[Chess endgame|endgames]] with a passed pawn, [[Tarrasch rule|Tarrasch's rule]] states that rooks, both friend and foe of the pawn, are usually strongest {{em|behind}} the pawn rather than in front of it.
A bishop always stays on squares the color it was born on. This is not a big concern if you still have both bishops, but once one of them is gone, you should keep in mind that you now have a hard time attacking or defending squares of the wrong color. If you have only one bishop left, you typically want to move your pawns to squares of the other color so that they don't block the bishop and so that the enemy pawns are stuck on the right color and can be attacked.


A king and a rook are sufficient material to checkmate an opposing lone king, although it's a little harder than checkmating with king and queen; thus the rook's distinction as a major piece above the knight and bishop.
If you don't see a good square for development of a bishop, you can consider a ''fianchetto'': pawn g2-g3 and bishop f1-g2. This forms a strong defense for the castled king on g1 and the bishop can often exert pressure on the long diagonal h1-a8.
After a fianchetto, you should not give up the bishop too easily, because then the holes around the king can easily prove fatal.


==== Queen ====
To decide whether in a given position a knight or a bishop is more powerful, several aspects have to be taken into account: if the game is "closed" with lots of interlocked pawn formations, the knight will be stronger, because it can hop over the pawns while the bishop is blocked by them. A bishop is also weak if it is permanently blocked by his own pawns, which are arrested on the wrong color. In an open game with action on both sides of the board, the bishop will be stronger because of its long range. This is especially true in the endgame, if passed pawns race on opposite sides of the board: the bishop will always win over the knight here.
{{Main|Queen (chess)|l1=Queen}}


Queens are the most powerful pieces. They have great mobility and can make many threats at once. They can act as a rook and as a bishop at the same time. For these reasons, [[checkmate]] attacks involving a queen are easier to achieve than those without one. Although powerful, the queen is also easily harassed. Thus, it is generally wise to wait to {{chessgloss|develop}} the queen until after the knights and bishops have been developed to prevent the queen from being attacked by minor pieces and losing [[tempo (chess)|tempo]]. When a [[Pawn promotion|pawn is promoted]], most of the time it is promoted to a queen.
An endgame in which both parties have bishops living on different colors is almost always drawn, even if one side is two pawns ahead.


==== Rooks ====
==== King ====
{{Main|King (chess)|l1=King}}
During the middlegame, the king is often best protected in a corner behind its pawns. Such a position for either of the players is often achieved by [[castling]] by that player. If the rooks and queen leave the first rank (commonly called that player's ''back rank''), however, an enemy rook or queen can checkmate the king by invading the first rank, commonly called a [[back-rank checkmate]]. Moving one of the pawns in front of the king (making a [[luft]]) can allow it an escape square, but may weaken the king's overall safety otherwise. One must therefore wisely balance between these trade-offs.


Castling is often thought to help protect the king and often "connects" the player's two rooks together so the two rooks may protect each other. This can reduce a threat of a back-rank [[Skewer (chess)|skewer]] in which the king can be skewered with capture of a rook behind it.
Rooks are most powerful on half-open files, i.e. files which don't contain pawns of your own color. They are also useful on open files without any pawns in order to penetrate into enemy territory (most likely to the seventh row).


The king can become a strong piece in the endgame. With reduced material, a quick checkmate becomes less of a concern, and moving the king towards the center of the board gives it more opportunities to make threats and actively influence play.
In the endgame, if you have a passed pawn which is a candidate for promotion, the rook belongs behind the pawn to support its advance.


==== King ====
== Considerations ==

Chess strategy consists of setting and achieving long-term goals during the game—for example, where to place different pieces—while tactics concentrate on immediate maneuver. These two parts of chess thinking cannot be completely separated, because strategic goals are mostly achieved by the means of tactics, while the tactical opportunities are based on the previous strategy of play.

Because of different strategic and tactical patterns, a game of chess is usually divided into three distinct phases: the [[Chess opening|opening]], usually the first 10 to 25 moves, when players develop their armies and set up the stage for the coming battle; the [[Chess middlegame|middlegame]], the developed phase of the game; and the [[Chess endgame|endgame]], when most of the pieces are gone and kings start to take an active part in the struggle.

=== Opening ===
{{Main|Chess opening}}

A chess opening is the group of initial moves of a game (the "opening moves"). Recognized sequences of opening moves are referred to as ''openings'' and have been given names such as the [[Ruy Lopez]] or [[Sicilian Defence]]. They are catalogued in reference works such as the ''[[Encyclopaedia of Chess Openings]]''. It is recommended for anyone but the chessmasters that when left with a choice to either invent a new variation or follow a standard opening, choose the latter.{{Citation needed|date=January 2010}}

There are dozens of different openings, varying widely in character from quiet positional play (e.g. the [[Réti Opening]]) to very aggressive play (e.g. the [[Latvian Gambit]]). In some opening lines, the exact sequence considered best for both sides has been worked out to 30–35 moves or more.<ref>{{cite book | author= Collins, Sam| title=Understanding the Chess Openings |publisher=Gambit Publications| year=2005 | isbn=1-904600-28-X}}</ref> Professional players spend years studying openings, and continue doing so throughout their careers, as [[Chess theory#Opening theory|opening theory]] continues to evolve.

The fundamental strategic aims of most openings are similar:<ref>{{cite book | author=Tarrasch, Siegbert | title=The Game of Chess |publisher=Courier Dover Publications| year=1987 | isbn=0-486-25447-X | author-link=Siegbert Tarrasch}}</ref>
*''Development:'' To place (develop) the pieces (particularly bishops and knights) on useful squares where they influence the game.
*''Control of the {{chessgloss|center}}:'' Control of the central squares allows pieces to be moved to any part of the board relatively easily, and can also have a cramping effect on the opponent.
*''King safety:'' Correct timing of castling can enhance this.
*''[[Pawn structure]]:'' Players strive to avoid the creation of pawn weaknesses such as isolated, [[Doubled pawns|doubled]] or [[backward pawn]]s, and {{cgloss|pawn islands}}.

During the opening, some pieces have a recognized optimum square they try to reach. Hence, an optimum deployment could be to push the king and queen pawn two squares, followed by moving the knights so they protect the center pawns and give additional control of the center. One can then deploy the bishops, protected by the knights, to [[pin (chess)|pin]] the opponent's knights and pawns. An opening may end with castling, which moves the king to safety, creates a stronger {{cgloss|back rank}}, and puts a rook on a {{chessgloss|center file}}.

Apart from these fundamentals, other strategic plans or tactical sequences may be employed in the opening.

Most players and [[Chess theory|theoreticians]] consider that White, by virtue of the first move, [[First-move advantage in chess|begins the game with a small advantage]]. Black usually strives to neutralize White's advantage and achieve {{chessgloss|equality}}, or to develop {{cgloss|dynamism|dynamic}} {{cgloss|counterplay}} in an unbalanced position.

=== Middlegame ===
{{Main|Chess middlegame}}

The middlegame is the part of the game when most pieces have been developed. Because the opening theory has ended, players have to assess the position to form plans based on the features of the positions, and at the same time take into account the tactical possibilities in the position.<ref>Harding (2003), p. 32–151</ref>

Typical plans or strategic themes—for example the {{chessgloss|minority attack}}, that is the attack of {{chessgloss|queenside}} pawns against an opponent who has more pawns on the queenside—are often appropriate just for some [[pawn structure]]s, resulting from a specific group of openings. The study of openings should therefore be connected with the preparation of plans typical for resulting middlegames.

The middlegame is also the phase when most [[Combination (chess)|combinations]] occur.<ref name=vids2>{{cite web | url=https://www.skillshare.com/classes/Chess-MasterClass-Learn-to-Play-Chess/1192984645 | title=Chess Masterclass: Learn to Play Chess! | publisher=Skillshare.com | access-date=2020-11-09}}</ref> Middlegame combinations are often connected with the attack against the opponent's king; some typical patterns have their own names, for example the [[Boden's Mate]] or the [[Lasker - Bauer, Amsterdam, 1889|Lasker–Bauer]] combination.

Another important strategical question in the middlegame is whether and how to reduce material and transform into an endgame (i.e. {{chessgloss|simplify}}). For example, minor material advantages can generally be transformed into victory only in an endgame, and therefore the stronger side must choose an appropriate way to achieve an ending. Not every reduction of material is good for this purpose; for example, if one side keeps a light-squared bishop and the opponent has a dark-squared one, the transformation into a ''[[Chess endgame#Bishop and pawn endings|bishops and pawns ending]]'' is usually advantageous for the weaker side only, because an endgame with [[opposite-colored bishops endgame|bishops on opposite colors]] is likely to be a draw, even with an advantage of one or two pawns.

=== Endgame ===
{{Main|Chess endgame}}

{{Chess diagram
| tright
|
|__|__|kd|__|__|__|__|__
|__|__|pl|__|__|__|__|__
|__|__|__|kl|__|__|__|__
|__|__|__|__|__|__|__|__
|__|__|__|__|__|__|__|__
|__|__|__|__|__|__|__|__
|__|__|__|__|__|__|__|__
|__|__|__|__|__|__|__|__
| An example of [[zugzwang]]: The side to move has a disadvantage.
}}


The endgame (or ''end game'' or ''ending'') is the stage of the game when there are few pieces left on the board. There are three main strategic differences between earlier stages of the game and the endgame:<ref>Harding (2003), p. 187ff</ref>
During the middle game, the king mostly stays in a corner behind his pawns. Moving these pawns should be avoided because that weakens the king's position. However, as the rooks leave the first row, there is a danger of an enemy rook invading the first row and mating the king, so sometimes it is necessary to move one of the pawns in front of the king to counter these mate threats.
*During the endgame, pawns become more important; endgames often revolve around attempting to [[promotion (chess)|promote]] a pawn by advancing it to the eighth rank.
*The king, which must be protected in the middlegame owing to the threat of checkmate, becomes a strong piece in the endgame and it is often brought to the center of the board where it can protect its own pawns, attack the pawns of opposite color, and hinder movement of the opponent's king.
*[[Zugzwang]], a disadvantage because the player must make a move, is often a factor in endgames and rarely in other stages of the game. For example, in the adjacent diagram, Black on move must play 1...Kb7 and allow white to {{cgloss|queening|queen}} after 2.Kd7, while White on move must allow a draw either after 1.Kc6 stalemate or losing the last pawn by moving anywhere else.


Endgames can be classified according to the type of pieces remaining on the board. [[Checkmate#Basic checkmates|Basic checkmates]] are positions where one side has only a king and the other side has one or two pieces and can checkmate the opposing king, with the pieces working together with their king. For example, [[Chess endgame#King and pawn endings|king and pawn endgames]] involve only kings and pawns on one or both sides and the task of the stronger side is to promote one of the pawns. Other more complicated endings are classified according to the pieces on the board other than kings, e.g. "[[rook and pawn versus rook endgame]]".
In the endgame, the king becomes a strong piece. With reduced material, mate is not an immediate concern anymore, and the king should be moved towards the center of the board.


==See also==
==== Defending pieces ====
* [[Outline of chess#Chess strategy|Outline of chess: Chess strategy]]
* [[Chess tactics]]
* [[Glossary of chess|Chess terminology]]
* [[School of chess]]


==References==
In general, it is a good idea to defend your pieces, even if they are not currently attacked. This way, many tactical tricks of the opponent won't work. Conversely, if you spot undefended pieces of the opponent, you should think about exploiting the situation with a tactical combination.
{{Reflist|30em}}


'''Bibliography'''
* {{Cite book
|last=Evans|first=Larry|author-link=Larry Evans (chess grandmaster)
|title=New Ideas in Chess
|year=1958
|publisher=Pitman (1984 [[Dover Publications|Dover]] edition)
|isbn= 0-486-28305-4}}
* {{Cite book
|last=Silman|first=Jeremy|author-link=Jeremy Silman
|title=How to Reassess your Chess
|year=1993
|publisher=Siles Press
|isbn= 1-890085-00-6|edition=3rd }}
* Josh Waitzkin (2002). Chessmaster 8000 Classroom


==Further reading==
==== The Endgame ====
* {{cite book | author = James Eade | title = Chess for Dummies| publisher = Gambit | year = 2001 }} A comprehensive guide for beginners.
* {{cite book | author = John Nunn | title = Understanding Chess Move by Move | publisher = Gambit | year = 2001 | author-link = John Nunn }} An [[International Grandmaster]] explains the thinking behind every single move of many world-class games.
*{{Cite book
| last = Silman|first=Jeremy <!-- |author-link=Jeremy Silman -->
| title=The Complete Book of Chess Strategy
| publisher=Silman-James Press
| year=1998
| isbn= 978-1-890085-01-8}}
* {{cite book | author = Jeremy Silman | title = The Amateur's Mind: Turning Chess Misconceptions into Chess Mastery | url = https://archive.org/details/amateursmind00jere | url-access = registration | publisher = Siles Press | year = 1999 | isbn = 9781890085025 | author-link = Jeremy Silman}} A chess teacher analyzes and corrects the thinking of advanced beginners.
* {{cite book | author = Yasser Seirawan | title = Winning Chess Strategies | publisher = Everyman Chess | year = 2005 | isbn = 1-85744-385-3 | author-link = Yasser Seirawan }}


==External links==
Once most pieces have been exchanged off the board, it becomes impossible to mount direct attacks on the King. In this situation, the focus of the game switches to attempting to bring a pawn to the eighth rank and promote it to Queen, whilst preventing one's opponent from doing so. The promoted queen, provided it is not immediately captured by the opponent, is enough to ensure a certain win.
{{wikibooks|Chess|Strategy}}
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20120116113334/http://www.chessplans.com/ ''Chess Plans and Strategy''] Evaluate positions from master chess games, vote for which side has the advantage based on 8 strategic themes, see how your opinion compares to others.
* [https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/5614 ''Chess Strategy'', Second Edition] and [https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/4913 ''Chess and Checkers: the Way to Mastership''], both by [[Edward Lasker]]
* [https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/16377 ''The Blue Book of Chess'']; "Teaching the Rudiments of the Game, and Giving an Analysis of All the Recognized Openings" by [[Howard Staunton]]


{{chess}}
Sometimes, all pawns will be eliminated from the board and one player will be left with a King and some combinations of rooks, knights and bishops against a lone King. It is quite straightforward to force a win with a king and rook. A king and two bishops is also enough to force a win, but it requires a bit more skill, even more so in the case of a king, bishop and knight. A king and two knights, or a king and one minor piece, is not enough to force a win and thus the game will be declared a draw.
{{Authority control}}


[[Category:Chess strategy| ]]
----
'''Further reading:'''
* John Nunn: ''Understanding Chess move by move'', Gambit 2001. A top players explains the thinking behind every single move of several master class games.
* Jeremy Silman: ''The Amateur's Mind: Turning Chess Misconceptions into Chess Mastery'', Siles Press 1999. A chess teacher analyzes and corrects the thinking of advanced beginners.

Latest revision as of 20:51, 19 March 2024

Chess strategy is the aspect of chess play concerned with evaluation of chess positions and setting goals and long-term plans for future play. While evaluating a position strategically, a player must take into account such factors as the relative value of the pieces on the board, pawn structure, king safety, position of pieces, and control of key squares and groups of squares (e.g. diagonals, open files, and individual squares). Chess strategy is distinguished from chess tactics, which is the aspect of play concerned with the move-by-move setting up of threats and defenses. Some authors distinguish static strategic imbalances (e.g. having more valuable pieces or better pawn structure), which tend to persist for many moves, from dynamic imbalances (such as one player having an advantage in piece development), which are temporary.[1] This distinction affects the immediacy with which a sought-after plan should take effect. Until players reach the skill level of "master", chess tactics tend to ultimately decide the outcomes of games more often than strategy. Many chess coaches thus emphasize the study of tactics as the most efficient way to improve one's results in serious chess play.

The most basic way to evaluate one's position is to count the total value of pieces on both sides. The point values used for this purpose are based on experience. Usually pawns are considered to be worth one point, knights and bishops three points each, rooks five points, and queens nine points. The fighting value of the king in the endgame is approximately four points. These basic values are modified by other factors such as the position of the pieces (e.g. advanced pawns are usually more valuable than those on their starting squares), coordination between pieces (e.g. a bishop pair usually coordinates better than a bishop plus a knight), and the type of position (knights are generally better in closed positions with many pawns, while bishops are more powerful in open positions).

Another important factor in the evaluation of chess positions is the pawn structure or pawn skeleton. Since pawns are the most immobile and least valuable of the pieces, the pawn structure is relatively static and largely determines the strategic nature of the position. Weaknesses in the pawn structure, such as isolated, doubled, or backward pawns and holes, once created, are usually permanent. Care must therefore be taken to avoid them unless they are compensated by another valuable asset, such as the possibility to develop an attack.

Basic concepts of board evaluation[edit]

A material advantage applies both strategically and tactically. Generally more pieces or an aggregate of more powerful pieces means greater chances of winning. A fundamental strategic and tactical rule is to capture opponent pieces while preserving one's own.

Bishops and knights are called minor pieces. A knight is about as valuable as a bishop, but less valuable than a rook. Rooks and the queen are called major pieces. Bishops are usually considered slightly better than knights in open positions, such as toward the end of the game when many of the pieces have been captured, whereas knights have an advantage in closed positions. Having two bishops (the bishop pair) is a particularly powerful weapon, especially if the opposing player lacks one or both of their bishops.

Three pawns are likely to be more useful than a knight in the endgame, but in the middlegame, a knight is often more powerful. Two minor pieces are stronger than a single rook, and two rooks are slightly stronger than a queen. The bishop on squares of the same color as the opponent's king is slightly more valuable in the opening as it can attack the vulnerable square f7 (for White) or f2 (for Black). A rook is more valuable when doubled with another rook or queen; consequently, doubled rooks are worth more than two unconnected rooks.

One commonly used simple scoring system is:

Piece Value
Pawn 1
Knight 3
Bishop 3
Rook 5
Queen 9

Under a system like this, giving up a knight or bishop to win a rook ("winning the exchange") is advantageous and is worth about two pawns. This ignores complications such as the current position and freedom of the pieces involved, but it is a good starting point. In an open position, bishops are more valuable than knights (a bishop pair can easily be worth seven points or more in some situations); conversely, in a closed position, bishops are less valuable than knights. A knight in the center of the board that cannot be taken, however, is known as a knight outpost and threatens several fork instances. In such a case, a knight is worth far more than a bishop. Also, many pieces have a partner. By doubling up two knights, two rooks, rook and queen, or bishop and queen, the pieces can get stronger than the sum of the individual pieces alone. When a piece loses its partner, its value slightly decreases. The king is priceless since its capture results in the defeat of that player and ends that game. However, especially in the endgame, the king can also be a fighting piece, and is sometimes given a fighting value of three-and-a-half points.

Space[edit]

Other things being equal, the side that controls more space on the board has an advantage.[2] More space means more options, which can be exploited both tactically and strategically. A player who has all pieces developed and no tactical tricks or promising long-term plan should try to find a move that enlarges their influence, particularly in the center. In some openings, however, one player accepts less space for a time, to set up a counterattack in the middlegame. This is one of the concepts behind hypermodern play.

The easiest way to gain space is to push the pawn skeleton forward. One must be careful not to over stretch, however. If the opponent succeeds in getting a protected piece behind enemy lines, this piece can become such a serious problem that a piece with a higher value might have to be exchanged for it.

abcdefgh
8
a8 black rook
d8 black queen
f8 black rook
g8 black king
a7 black pawn
b7 black bishop
c7 black pawn
d7 black knight
e7 black bishop
f7 black pawn
g7 black pawn
h7 black pawn
b6 black pawn
d6 black pawn
f6 black knight
d5 white pawn
e5 black pawn
c4 white pawn
e4 white pawn
a3 white pawn
c3 white knight
g3 white pawn
b2 white pawn
e2 white knight
f2 white pawn
g2 white bishop
h2 white pawn
a1 white rook
c1 white bishop
d1 white queen
f1 white rook
g1 white king
8
77
66
55
44
33
22
11
abcdefgh
White has an advantage in space.[3]

Larry Evans gives a method of evaluating space. The method (for each side) is to count the number of squares attacked or occupied on the opponent's side of the board. In this diagram from the Nimzo-Indian Defense, Black attacks four squares on White's side of the board (d4, e4, f4, and g4). White attacks seven squares on Black's side of the board (b5, c6, e6, f5, g5, and h6 – counting b5 twice) and occupies one square (d5). White has a space advantage of eight to four and Black is cramped.[3]

Control of the center[edit]

abcdefgh
8
a8 black rook
b8 black knight
c8 black bishop
d8 black queen
e8 black king
f8 black bishop
g8 black knight
h8 black rook
a7 black pawn
b7 black pawn
c7 black pawn
d7 black pawn
e7 black pawn
f7 black pawn
g7 black pawn
h7 black pawn
d5 black cross
e5 black cross
d4 black cross
e4 black cross
a2 white pawn
b2 white pawn
c2 white pawn
d2 white pawn
e2 white pawn
f2 white pawn
g2 white pawn
h2 white pawn
a1 white rook
b1 white knight
c1 white bishop
d1 white queen
e1 white king
f1 white bishop
g1 white knight
h1 white rook
8
77
66
55
44
33
22
11
abcdefgh
Center squares are marked by "X".

The strategy consists of placing pieces so that they attack the central four squares of the board. A piece being placed on a central square, however, does not necessarily mean it controls the center; e.g., a knight on a central square does not attack any central squares. Conversely, a piece does not have to be on a central square to control the center. For example, the bishop can control the center from afar.

Control of the center is generally considered important because tactical battles often take place around the central squares, from where pieces can access most of the board. Center control allows more movement and more possibility for attack and defense.

Chess openings try to control the center while developing pieces. Hypermodern openings are those that control the center with pieces from afar (usually the side, such as with a fianchetto); the older Classical (or Modern) openings control it with pawns.

Initiative[edit]

The initiative belongs to the player who can make threats that cannot be ignored, such as checking the opponent's king. They thus put their opponent in the position of having to use their turns responding to threats rather than making their own, hindering the development of their pieces.[4] The player with the initiative is generally attacking and the other player is generally defending.

Defending pieces[edit]

It is important to defend one's pieces even if they are not directly threatened. This helps stop possible future campaigns from the opponent. If a defender must be added at a later time, this may cost a tempo or even be impossible due to a fork or discovered attack. The approach of always defending one's pieces has an antecedent in the theory of Aron Nimzowitsch who referred to it as "overprotection." Similarly, if one spots undefended enemy pieces, one should immediately take advantage of those pieces' weakness.

Even a defended piece can be vulnerable. If the defending piece is also defending something else, it is called an overworked piece, and may not be able to fulfill its task. When there is more than one attacking piece, the number of defenders must also be increased, and their values taken into account. In addition to defending pieces, it is also often necessary to defend key squares, open files, and the back rank. These situations can easily occur if the pawn structure is weak.

Exchanging pieces[edit]

To exchange pieces means to capture a hostile piece and then allow a piece of the same value to be captured. As a rule of thumb, exchanging pieces eases the task of the defender who typically has less room to operate in.

Exchanging pieces is usually desirable to a player with an existing advantage in material, since it brings the endgame closer and thereby leaves the opponent with less ability to recover ground. In the endgame even a single pawn advantage may be decisive. Exchanging also benefits the player who is being attacked, the player who controls less space, and the player with the better pawn structure.[citation needed]

When playing against stronger players, many beginners attempt to constantly exchange pieces "to simplify matters". However, stronger players are often relatively stronger in the endgame, whereas errors are more common during the more complicated middlegame.

Note that "the exchange" may also specifically mean a rook exchanged for a bishop or knight. The phrase "up the exchange" means that a player has captured a rook in exchange for a bishop or knight—a materially advantageous trade. Conversely, "down the exchange" means having lost a rook but captured a bishop or knight—a materially disadvantageous trade.

Specific pieces[edit]

Pawns[edit]

An example of visualizing pawn structures
abcdefgh
8
a8 black rook
c8 black bishop
e8 black rook
g8 black king
a7 black pawn
b7 black pawn
d7 black knight
f7 black pawn
g7 black bishop
h7 black pawn
c6 black pawn
d6 white rook
f6 black knight
g6 black pawn
e5 black pawn
c4 white pawn
e4 white pawn
c3 white knight
e3 white bishop
f3 white knight
h3 white pawn
a2 white pawn
b2 white pawn
f2 white pawn
g2 white pawn
c1 white king
f1 white bishop
h1 white rook
8
77
66
55
44
33
22
11
abcdefgh
After 12...Re8 in Tarrasch–Euwe, 1922[5] ...
abcdefgh
8
a7 black pawn
b7 black pawn
f7 black pawn
h7 black pawn
c6 black pawn
g6 black pawn
e5 black pawn
c4 white pawn
e4 white pawn
h3 white pawn
a2 white pawn
b2 white pawn
f2 white pawn
g2 white pawn
8
77
66
55
44
33
22
11
abcdefgh
... and its pawn skeleton ("The Rauzer formation")

In the endgame, passed pawns, unhindered by enemy pawns from promotion, are strong, especially if advanced or protected by another pawn. A passed pawn on the sixth rank is roughly as strong as a knight or bishop and often decides the game. (Also see isolated pawn, doubled pawns, backward pawn, connected pawns.)

Knights[edit]

Since knights can easily be chased away by pawn moves, it is often advantageous for knights to be placed in holes in the enemy position as outposts—squares where they cannot be attacked by pawns. Such a knight on the fifth rank is a strong asset. The ideal position for a knight is the opponent's third rank, when it is supported by one or two pawns.[6] A knight at the edge or corner of the board controls fewer squares than one on the board's interior, thus the saying "A knight on the rim is dim!"

A king and one knight are not sufficient material to checkmate an opposing lone king (see Two knights endgame). A king and two knights can checkmate a lone king but cannot force it.

Bishops[edit]

A bishop always stays on squares of the color it started on, so once one of them is gone, the squares of that color become more difficult to control. When this happens, pawns moved to squares of the other color do not block the bishop, and enemy pawns directly facing them are stuck on the vulnerable color.

A fianchettoed bishop, e.g. at g2 after pawn g2–g3, can provide a strong defense for the castled king on g1 and often exert pressure on the long diagonal h1–a8. After a fianchetto, giving up the bishop can weaken the holes in the pawn chain; doing so in front of the castled king may thus affect its safety.

In general, a bishop is of roughly equal value to a knight. In certain circumstances, one can be more powerful than the other. If the game is "closed" with many interlocked pawn formations, the knight tends to be stronger, because it can hop over the pawns while they block the bishop. A bishop is also weak if it is restricted by its own pawns, especially if they are blocked and on the bishop's color. Once a bishop is lost, the remaining bishop is considered weaker since the opponent can now plan their moves to play a white or black color game.

In an open position with action on both sides of the board, the bishop tends to be stronger because of its long range. This is especially true in the endgame; if passed pawns race on opposite sides of the board, the player with a bishop usually has better winning chances than a player with a knight.

A king and a bishop are not sufficient material to checkmate an opposing lone king, but two bishops and a king checkmate an opposing lone king easily.

Rooks[edit]

Rooks have more scope of movement on half-open files (ones with no pawns of one's own color). Rooks on the seventh rank can be very powerful as they attack pawns that can only be defended by other pieces, and they can restrict the enemy king to its back rank. A pair of rooks on the player's seventh rank are often a sign of a winning position.

In middlegames and endgames with a passed pawn, Tarrasch's rule states that rooks, both friend and foe of the pawn, are usually strongest behind the pawn rather than in front of it.

A king and a rook are sufficient material to checkmate an opposing lone king, although it's a little harder than checkmating with king and queen; thus the rook's distinction as a major piece above the knight and bishop.

Queen[edit]

Queens are the most powerful pieces. They have great mobility and can make many threats at once. They can act as a rook and as a bishop at the same time. For these reasons, checkmate attacks involving a queen are easier to achieve than those without one. Although powerful, the queen is also easily harassed. Thus, it is generally wise to wait to develop the queen until after the knights and bishops have been developed to prevent the queen from being attacked by minor pieces and losing tempo. When a pawn is promoted, most of the time it is promoted to a queen.

King[edit]

During the middlegame, the king is often best protected in a corner behind its pawns. Such a position for either of the players is often achieved by castling by that player. If the rooks and queen leave the first rank (commonly called that player's back rank), however, an enemy rook or queen can checkmate the king by invading the first rank, commonly called a back-rank checkmate. Moving one of the pawns in front of the king (making a luft) can allow it an escape square, but may weaken the king's overall safety otherwise. One must therefore wisely balance between these trade-offs.

Castling is often thought to help protect the king and often "connects" the player's two rooks together so the two rooks may protect each other. This can reduce a threat of a back-rank skewer in which the king can be skewered with capture of a rook behind it.

The king can become a strong piece in the endgame. With reduced material, a quick checkmate becomes less of a concern, and moving the king towards the center of the board gives it more opportunities to make threats and actively influence play.

Considerations[edit]

Chess strategy consists of setting and achieving long-term goals during the game—for example, where to place different pieces—while tactics concentrate on immediate maneuver. These two parts of chess thinking cannot be completely separated, because strategic goals are mostly achieved by the means of tactics, while the tactical opportunities are based on the previous strategy of play.

Because of different strategic and tactical patterns, a game of chess is usually divided into three distinct phases: the opening, usually the first 10 to 25 moves, when players develop their armies and set up the stage for the coming battle; the middlegame, the developed phase of the game; and the endgame, when most of the pieces are gone and kings start to take an active part in the struggle.

Opening[edit]

A chess opening is the group of initial moves of a game (the "opening moves"). Recognized sequences of opening moves are referred to as openings and have been given names such as the Ruy Lopez or Sicilian Defence. They are catalogued in reference works such as the Encyclopaedia of Chess Openings. It is recommended for anyone but the chessmasters that when left with a choice to either invent a new variation or follow a standard opening, choose the latter.[citation needed]

There are dozens of different openings, varying widely in character from quiet positional play (e.g. the Réti Opening) to very aggressive play (e.g. the Latvian Gambit). In some opening lines, the exact sequence considered best for both sides has been worked out to 30–35 moves or more.[7] Professional players spend years studying openings, and continue doing so throughout their careers, as opening theory continues to evolve.

The fundamental strategic aims of most openings are similar:[8]

  • Development: To place (develop) the pieces (particularly bishops and knights) on useful squares where they influence the game.
  • Control of the center: Control of the central squares allows pieces to be moved to any part of the board relatively easily, and can also have a cramping effect on the opponent.
  • King safety: Correct timing of castling can enhance this.
  • Pawn structure: Players strive to avoid the creation of pawn weaknesses such as isolated, doubled or backward pawns, and pawn islands.

During the opening, some pieces have a recognized optimum square they try to reach. Hence, an optimum deployment could be to push the king and queen pawn two squares, followed by moving the knights so they protect the center pawns and give additional control of the center. One can then deploy the bishops, protected by the knights, to pin the opponent's knights and pawns. An opening may end with castling, which moves the king to safety, creates a stronger back rank, and puts a rook on a center file.

Apart from these fundamentals, other strategic plans or tactical sequences may be employed in the opening.

Most players and theoreticians consider that White, by virtue of the first move, begins the game with a small advantage. Black usually strives to neutralize White's advantage and achieve equality, or to develop dynamic counterplay in an unbalanced position.

Middlegame[edit]

The middlegame is the part of the game when most pieces have been developed. Because the opening theory has ended, players have to assess the position to form plans based on the features of the positions, and at the same time take into account the tactical possibilities in the position.[9]

Typical plans or strategic themes—for example the minority attack, that is the attack of queenside pawns against an opponent who has more pawns on the queenside—are often appropriate just for some pawn structures, resulting from a specific group of openings. The study of openings should therefore be connected with the preparation of plans typical for resulting middlegames.

The middlegame is also the phase when most combinations occur.[10] Middlegame combinations are often connected with the attack against the opponent's king; some typical patterns have their own names, for example the Boden's Mate or the Lasker–Bauer combination.

Another important strategical question in the middlegame is whether and how to reduce material and transform into an endgame (i.e. simplify). For example, minor material advantages can generally be transformed into victory only in an endgame, and therefore the stronger side must choose an appropriate way to achieve an ending. Not every reduction of material is good for this purpose; for example, if one side keeps a light-squared bishop and the opponent has a dark-squared one, the transformation into a bishops and pawns ending is usually advantageous for the weaker side only, because an endgame with bishops on opposite colors is likely to be a draw, even with an advantage of one or two pawns.

Endgame[edit]

abcdefgh
8
c8 black king
c7 white pawn
d6 white king
8
77
66
55
44
33
22
11
abcdefgh
An example of zugzwang: The side to move has a disadvantage.

The endgame (or end game or ending) is the stage of the game when there are few pieces left on the board. There are three main strategic differences between earlier stages of the game and the endgame:[11]

  • During the endgame, pawns become more important; endgames often revolve around attempting to promote a pawn by advancing it to the eighth rank.
  • The king, which must be protected in the middlegame owing to the threat of checkmate, becomes a strong piece in the endgame and it is often brought to the center of the board where it can protect its own pawns, attack the pawns of opposite color, and hinder movement of the opponent's king.
  • Zugzwang, a disadvantage because the player must make a move, is often a factor in endgames and rarely in other stages of the game. For example, in the adjacent diagram, Black on move must play 1...Kb7 and allow white to queen after 2.Kd7, while White on move must allow a draw either after 1.Kc6 stalemate or losing the last pawn by moving anywhere else.

Endgames can be classified according to the type of pieces remaining on the board. Basic checkmates are positions where one side has only a king and the other side has one or two pieces and can checkmate the opposing king, with the pieces working together with their king. For example, king and pawn endgames involve only kings and pawns on one or both sides and the task of the stronger side is to promote one of the pawns. Other more complicated endings are classified according to the pieces on the board other than kings, e.g. "rook and pawn versus rook endgame".

See also[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^ Silman, "How to Reassess Your Chess"
  2. ^ "Positional advantage - Chess Strategy Online". www.chessstrategyonline.com. Retrieved 3 April 2018.
  3. ^ a b Evans (1958), pp. 103–04
  4. ^ "Glossary : Initiative". Archived from the original on 2006-05-06. Retrieved 2010-02-20.
  5. ^ "Tarrasch vs Euwe on chessgames.com". (Java needed)
  6. ^ "The Knight". www.thechessdrum.net. Retrieved 3 April 2018.
  7. ^ Collins, Sam (2005). Understanding the Chess Openings. Gambit Publications. ISBN 1-904600-28-X.
  8. ^ Tarrasch, Siegbert (1987). The Game of Chess. Courier Dover Publications. ISBN 0-486-25447-X.
  9. ^ Harding (2003), p. 32–151
  10. ^ "Chess Masterclass: Learn to Play Chess!". Skillshare.com. Retrieved 2020-11-09.
  11. ^ Harding (2003), p. 187ff

Bibliography

Further reading[edit]

External links[edit]